Northern Michigan has a Wine Style all It’s Own

A unique wine region truly without parallel.

I was recently asked by a member of my team in San Francisco, “So what European wine region would you say is most similar to Northern Michigan?” This question caught me off guard and actually stumped me. I started mentally scanning the regions throughout Europe and the rest of the well-known appellations of the world, but to no avail. Too cool for Austria’s Burgenland, with slopes too gentle for Wachau. Too much water influence for Champagne. Perhaps the Loire? Or maybe Australia’s Geelong? I realized it was time to take a trip and figure this out firsthand.

Chardonnay vines in Old Mission Peninsula

Wait… Michigan makes wine??

So first let’s dispel the idea that Michigan is too cold, or too inland, or too (insert whichever term you’ve heard here) to make excellent wine that can hold its own against the great European wine regions. The wine regions of Michigan span the latitudes of 42N to 45N - think France’s Corsica to Italy’s famous Barolo vineyards. Lake Michigan provides a mitigating factor to keep the cold winds and weather coming from the north from hitting the region’s prized vineyard land (most years, that is).

Michigan’s mild cool climate allows V. vinifera vines to thrive here, but varieties must be carefully chosen: the growing season is significantly shorter than in many European regions, so varieties must be matched carefully to the conditions. For this reason you’ll find the Burgundy grapes, Austrian and German grapes, and some northeastern Italian grapes growing happily on the rolling hills throughout Michigan’s viticultural areas, with some French-American hybrids like Traminette and Vignoles planted in the colder areas.

And by the way, Michigan wine is not a new thing. Vines have been planted here alongside crops like cherries, peaches, and apples since the mid-1900’s. So why have you never heard of Michigan wine? Until now, many of the wines didn’t make it far from their home. Luckily this is now going to change.

Source: Michigan State University Department of Geography

But aren’t the wines all sweet?

Michigan’s unique growing conditions allow these regions to make some fantastic sweet wines, it’s true. However most wines here are dry. Michigan specializes in crisp, vibrant, aromatic white wines and structured red wines with bright acidity and lively fruit aromas.

wine list at 2 Lads in Old Mission Peninsula

What styles of wine can I expect from Northern Michigan?

Northern Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula, while differing slightly in terroir, make a very distinct style of wine.

Dry Riesling has taken center stage for decades here, with good examples easily rivaling German, Alsatian, and Finger Lakes Rieslings. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay also make beautiful, expressive examples here, with the Chardonnay clone 809 (named the Giguiere Musque clone) producing a particularly aromatic, unoaked style.

Red wine grapes include the Austrian Blaufrankish, which here produces stunning wines with spice, dried herbs, and bright red fruits on the nose; Gamay, which is arguably a rising star here; Cabernet Franc, which has long been a staple but may fall out of favor due to ripening issues; and Pinot Noir, which has a devout following, but some naysayers as well due to its difficult nature and thin, skins vulnerable to disease.

Michigan’s growing conditions also make for the perfect sparkling wine terroir. You’ll find traditional method, Champagne-style wines aged on lees for a creamy, complex bubbly, tank method Prosecco-style wines showing off the intense aromatics grapes can achieve here, and easy-drinking, force carbonated bubbles made to enjoy on a sunny day on the deck or with appetizers and friends.

Some producers are venturing into the fascinating world of minimal intervention and natural wines too, producing pet-nats, wine with heavy skin contact, and adventurous styles for those looking for a bit of an edgier wine.

But where can I get ahold of some Michigan wine here?

We’ve made it our mission to increase awareness of regions like these. We are currently working with six producers from Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula. These wines are truly incredible, and will certainly change the mind of any of those who doubt.