The Rich History of Winemaking in Maryland
It’s hard to get people to taste wines from Maryland. The frequent response is “Wait, they make wine there? Where do they get the grapes from?” Of course, Maryland has been growing grapes and making wine for a long, long time. Read on to learn more!
Maryland’s AVAs today (courtesy of Carpe Travel, https://carpe-travel.com/maryland-wine-country/)
Winemaking in Maryland has a fascinating and diverse history that stretches back nearly four centuries. Despite facing various challenges, including prohibition and climatic conditions, the state's wine industry has flourished, producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of the region. Here's a look at the evolution of winemaking in Maryland, from its early beginnings to its current status as a respected wine-producing state.
A Maryland vineyard at sunset
Early Beginnings: The 17th and 18th Centuries
The history of winemaking in Maryland dates back to the early 1600s when European settlers brought grapevines to the New World. In 1648, the first recorded instance of viticulture in Maryland was documented when Father Andrew White, a Jesuit priest, made wine from native grapes for sacramental purposes. This marked the beginning of Maryland's long relationship with viticulture.
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, colonists attempted to cultivate European grape varieties, but they were largely unsuccessful due to the region's humid climate and the prevalence of vine diseases. However, the settlers persevered, experimenting with hybrid grape varieties that were more resistant to the local conditions.
The 19th Century: Early Commercial Wineries
The 19th century saw the establishment of the first commercial wineries in Maryland. In 1821, John Adlum, often referred to as the "Father of American Viticulture," planted vineyards in the Georgetown area of Washington, D.C., and his efforts extended into Maryland. Adlum's work with native grape varieties, particularly the Catawba grape, laid the foundation for the state's future wine industry.
By the mid-1800s, other pioneers such as Philip Wagner began to make significant contributions. Wagner, who founded Boordy Vineyards in 1945, was instrumental in promoting French-American hybrid grapes, which were more suitable for Maryland's climate. His work helped to establish a sustainable and resilient wine industry in the state.
Boordy Vineyards’ tasting area
Prohibition and Its Aftermath
The early 20th century brought significant challenges to Maryland's winemaking industry with the advent of Prohibition in 1920. During this period, the production and sale of alcoholic beverages were banned, causing many vineyards and wineries to close. However, some vineyards managed to survive by producing sacramental wine for religious purposes or by converting to other agricultural pursuits.
The repeal of Prohibition in 1933 allowed the wine industry to slowly rebuild. However, it wasn't until the 1960s and 1970s that Maryland's wine industry began to see significant growth again. This resurgence was fueled by a renewed interest in local and artisanal products, as well as advances in viticulture and winemaking techniques.
Modern Era: Growth and Recognition
The modern era of winemaking in Maryland began in earnest in the late 20th century. The Maryland Grape Growers Association, founded in 1981, and the Maryland Wineries Association, established in 1984, played pivotal roles in promoting the state's wine industry. These organizations provided support and resources to new and existing wineries, helping to improve the quality and visibility of Maryland wines.
Today, Maryland is home to over 100 wineries, producing a diverse array of wines from both vinifera and hybrid grape varieties. The state's five distinct wine trails—Carroll, Frederick, Patuxent, Piedmont, and Chesapeake—offer wine enthusiasts the opportunity to explore the unique flavors and styles of Maryland wines.
Notable wineries such as Boordy Vineyards, Black Ankle Vineyards, and Old Westminster Winery have garnered national and international recognition for their high-quality wines. These wineries, along with many others, continue to innovate and elevate the reputation of Maryland wines.
The history of winemaking in Maryland is a testament to the perseverance and ingenuity of its winemakers. From its early beginnings in the 17th century to its modern-day resurgence, Maryland's wine industry has grown and evolved, producing wines that reflect the unique character of the region. As more people discover the exceptional quality and diversity of Maryland wines, the state's reputation as a premier wine-producing region continues to grow. Whether you're a seasoned wine enthusiast or a curious newcomer, exploring Maryland's wineries offers a glimpse into the rich history and bright future of winemaking in the Old Line State.
